From the Italian language tapes in the bathroom to the three-liter bottles of Chianti on every table, the vibe here is exaggerated Italian-American kitsch. Boisterous, sprawling dining rooms are modeled after supper clubs of the '40s and '50s--servers holler, kitchen doors swing, and Sinatra rules the stereo. High-carb, red-sauced southern Italian cooking dominates the menu. And everything is big: Platters are piled impossibly high with baseball-sized meatballs balancing on mountains of spaghetti.
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